Today, with the Equator so tantalizingly close, everything seemed to slow to a snail’s pace. A snail with a ball and chain attached, even. The wind was in the southeast (not helpful) and I’m still in a north-flowing current (also not helpful) so the oars felt heavy and every stroke felt like a weight-lifting exercise.
Truth be told, I was getting pretty fed up with the whole business. Progress is very motivating. Lack of it is not. It’s a bit like trying to lose weight, and when the scales are being cruel the temptation is to say “forget it” and have a cake to cheer yourself up. But of course the only way to make progress – whether it be losing pounds or rowing oceans – is to keep the faith and carry on.
Morale was given a boost mid-afternoon when I picked up a text message on my satphone. It was from Ricardo, my new weatherman, saying “GOOD EFFORT GIRL. I CAN TELL YOU ARE TWEAKING YOUR COURSE AS MUCH AS POSS. GOOD AVG SPEED ALSO. RIC.” His assessment was maybe too flattering, but just then I needed those sweet little lies. Sometimes it’s just good to know that there are people watching, and that my efforts are being recognized – especially when my course on the GPS screen looks so discouraging.
This is a funny thing, because under normal circumstances I would have said that I don’t care too much for the opinion of other people. Of course, we all want to be liked, even approved, but generally I now steer my own course in life without considering whether it will please others. I just do what I do and they can like it or lump it.
But even the most independent-minded of us still appreciate some positive feedback from time to time, and that is why I cherish the comments and Tweets of the Rozionados. It’s good to know I am not alone, and that my every mile, my every effort, is monitored, appreciated, and commented on.
Meanwhile, during breaks from the oars, I’ve been getting ready for my Equatorial celebration. With less than 15 miles to go, I hope it’s not premature. I’ve dug out the mysterious yellow drybag labeled “DO NOT OPEN UNTIL 0 LATITUDE”. It was given to me by Nicole and Liz before I left Hawaii. I’m dying to take a peek but am resisting the urge – although I have given it a few squeezes, like an impatient kid with a Christmas present.
My gift and my sacrifice are at the ready, and in the absence of a crewmate or captain to represent Neptune, I have pressed Squishie the Dolphin into service as his representative. I didn’t happen to have a trident on board, but a fork makes a passable quatrent (or whatever it is called). I think Squishie looks rather regal, and look forward to paying him homage when I reach the magic Latitude Zero, which, with a bit of luck and more slogging, might be tomorrow.
Other Stuff:
This afternoon I saw a shark swimming alongside my boat. A proper Jaws-type shark, rather than the blunt-headed, vegetarian whale shark I saw a few weeks ago. But this one was just a tiddler – about 3 feet long – so I didn’t feel too apprehensive that he might eat me/my boat/my oar.
Thank you for the overwhelmingly positive response to my decision to try for Tuvalu. Good to hear I’ve got you on the edge of your seats. Me too! I do wish I had a crystal ball so I can see how all this is going to pan out. Or there again, maybe it’s just as well I don’t…
Marv asked if there is a backup plan. Of course there is. I always have a Plan B! First, if within the next couple of weeks it becomes evident that Tuvalu will be impossible, I can still change course for Tarawa. Second, if I can get close to Tuvalu but not quite make it, there is a research vessel due to be in the Tuvalu area in early-mid September, and they have offered to assist if required. Pushing on to the Solomons or Australia are not really options – not without a functioning watermaker, although I still hope to resolve that problem. Also, as it has taken me so much longer than expected to get through the ITCZ, I would require a resupply of food if I was to extend my voyage all the way to Australia. And I would have to cancel my book tour – and possibly all our plans for Copenhagen. So I very much hope it won’t come to that. It really IS Tuvalu or bust!
Will – for sure, I will give it my bestest. In fact, I think that is what I would want to be able to say on my deathbed – that I always did try my bestest. Nobody can do more than that. Thanks for giving me the word!
Tom B – your wife might just be right! But I hope that the eventual result will speak for itself. The Richard Byrd book sounds really interesting. I always love reading about people having a worse time than I am!
Christa – thanks for the info on Tuvalu. Only 6 prisoners? Mind you, I don’t suppose there’s much mischief you can get up to on a sandspit – and making a getaway would be quite a challenge too!
To Richard, my minstrel. Funny that recently I’ve been listening to books by George R R Martin, set in the court of some imagined medieval-ish place and time. So jesters, troubadours, singers and minstrels are very vivid in my mind right now. And you perform the role admirably – I very much appreciate your contributions to the Rozling community, as well as your thoughtfulness in considering how best you could enhance our enjoyment of the adventure. Thank you!
Donna – great questions. I’ve made a note of them for a future blog – and/or they are answered in depth in my book, Rowing The Atlantic, due out Oct 6. Available for pre-order on Amazon, and if you send your Amazon confirmation email to bookmark@rozsavage.com you can claim your special, limited edition Larabar bookmark, made from the wrapper of one of the many Larabars I am munching my way through on this crossing!
Weather report:
Position at 2300 HST: 00 13.624N, 179 27.693W
Wind: 15kts SE this morning, backing slightly this afternoon. Dropped to 9kts briefly after a squall, then revived to 15kts E.
Seas: swell from SE-E about 4ft
Weather: morning sunny and hot. More cloud this afternoon. Couple of passing rainshowers.
SUNDAY EVENING WIND WILL DROP AND BACK TO SLIGHTLY NORTH OF EAST WITH SPEEDS OF 3 TO 6 KNOTS. AS SOON AS YOU ARE ABLE, HEAD 170. THIS IS MY SUGGESTING AT A HEALTHY COMPROMISE BETWEEN WIND ANGLE AND EFFECTIVE SPEEDY COURSE TO TUVALU- WHILST STILL KEEPING YOU IN A SAFETY NET. I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE YOU ABOUT 40 MILES FURTHER EAST BEFORE WE START CONFIDENTLY CURVING YOU AROUND TOWARDS TUVALU. THINGS WILL BE GREAT UNTIL TUESDAY AND YOU SHOULD MAKE GOOD PROGRESS DURING THAT TIME. WED/THU NOT IDEAL AS WIND WILL GRADUALLY INCREASE TO 9-11KN FROM EAST AND THEN FROM ABOUT 110 DEGREES (SE). FRIDAY AND SATURDAY HAS A 30% CHANCE OF PROVIDING YOU WITH NE WINDS 12 KNOTS. IF THEY DO MATERIALISE,
THEY SHOULD STAY AROUND FOR AT LEAST 4 DAYS.
Hey Roz
Great progress. Can you post some photos of your stuffed animals while you are on the ecuador?
Squishie the Dolphin is an admirable admiral (crewmate or captain) … I can’t wait to witness what you have in mind for Squishie and us. On the edge of my seat holding my breath in anticipation — you tease! Right now, the big question in my mind is whether the big event will be today or tomorrow. According to RozTracker, the equator is 15 miles due south “as the boobie flies”, but if you continue your current course, it’s more like 30 miles away. Your progress is admirable, in any event, and I trust Ric is right about conditions changing to favor a southerly (and somewhat easterly) course. I did notice that you’ve rowed another hundred miles at yesterday’s 12:21 PM GPS marker. So honoring my Hundred Mile Carrot Pledge, I am now sprinkling before you another bunch of your favorite number of carrots southbound.
Thanks Caroline Haines! I enjoyed your post late yesterday on the (Day 90 page. For any who might not have seem it, be sure to read her quote from William Hutchinson Murray’s ‘The Scottish Himalayan Expedition’ (1951) … the Goethe quote at the end is worth repeating:
Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power and magic in it!
Wahoo!! Almost there! A baby shark, how neat! Squishie does look very, very regal. Good luck with the watermaker, your lifeline! The research vessel sounds very promising; is it the one I contacted last year to see if they could help? Last year they could not because of a prior commitment. Best to Poseidon (Greek: Ποσειδῶν; Latin: Neptūnus the god of the sea), may he keep you safe and well.
Squishie DOES look very regal with his quadradent(?) Can’t wait to hear what’s in the special Bag Zero! We’re with you every mile, Roz.
oops … typo … meant to say 14 miles due south “as the booby flies”
Roz,
Before you cross the equator, be sure to unpack your winter clothes and check your heaters for proper operation. You’ll thank me later 😉 Winter’s on its way!
Jon
Roz,
So excited for you and those of us lucky enough to be following you as you near the equator.
Congratulations also on your courageous decision to go for Tuvalu. I hope that you can imagine the lot of us Rozlings cheering for you.
I have a bit of a dated comment on your crescent moon spotting a bit ago. It seems fitting that you have spotted the moon and decided to go for Tuvalu around the same time. For Jews and Muslims this is an important lunar month. This is the month of Ramadan for Muslims, a month of fasting, charity, prayer, reading the Qur’an, and a focus on family. This is the month of Elul for Jews, a month of reflection, repentance, charity, family, and preparation for the upcoming Jewish High Holy days (the Jewish New Year and Day of Atonement.) I share this not to suggest any particular religious outlook on the world, but to acknowledge the spiritual focus for some of the world during this lunar month.
Wishing you all the best. Keep pulling those oars for yourself, the Rozlings and the planet.
Amy
Hi Roz,
Not to worry much about blowing your top once in a while when you a stuck in the middle of a volcano belt. Nor is it amiss to be a bit grumpy over the wear and tear on the physical body while battling the waves. Quid pro quo, no?
Bathymetry shows you are in a corridor that is favorable toward your quest for Tuvalu. Ocean currents I am currently studying imply even more favorable conditions starting at about 1.5 to 2 degrees S Lat. Winds and surface currents are driving me batty, but tomorrow -Monday- I will be at UBC to do some more research on Oceanography.
Not trying to predict your prospects, mostly just trying to satisfy my own intense curiousity. Ric is much more skilled at this than I could ever pretend to be; after all, look at the amazing guidance he gave Sarah. So, keep that faith up and running, old girl. You WILL succeed! -Achates
Geeze Roz, what did you have for breakfast!? Making a left turn to 208 degrees at 1.5 miles per hour. This is a real “horse race” today. Fortune and Neptune are favoring the bold today, indeed! You’ll be down under before dinner! I can see it now: Roz and Neptune seated at a table for two, fine linen, a silver trident candelabra, maitre d’Squishie serving the world’s finest. Happy day! We’ll be celebrating with you tonight!
In case anyone should be misled by Roz’s statement “…generally I now steer my own course in life without considering whether it will please others. I just do what I do and they can like it or lump it.” they should know that she is actually very kind and generous as well as solicitous of others’ feelings.
Hi Roz,
Betting my shirt you’ll become a shellback at 1706pm HST.
You Row girl (…if may be so bold as to call woman of the independent sort such as your self a girl)!
Rozta’ Bill
Not my shirt, Roz, but I’ll bet my best hat that you’ll cross the line at 18:32 HST.
Any other takers?
Errrgh! The RT hasn’t updated since the under 4 nautical miles post. I think you must be mighty close. (3:24 p.m. Hawaii time)
I’m staying up to see this, to catch the Equator Tweet before I go to bed. Looks like it might be right around midnight Atlanta time.
Go south Roz! It seems you are heading towards Arorae in the Kiribati nation! Manuia… (good luck in Tuvaluan)
Go Roz Go! I’ve been checking in all day to see your progress toward the equator. I know the decision to head for Tuvalu instead of Tarawa was not made lightly, but we all know you can do it.
It’s got to be so close you can feel Neptune’s whiskers. I know the feeling between latitude .001 and -.001 are going to be very much the same for you in real conditions, but here for me 6,590.7 miles away there will be a big surge of excitement.
RozTracker is now updating in 5 minute increments … this is painfully suspenseful as Roz is being pushed 266 degrees nearly due west … this minute detail is a killer … We are with you Roz, biting fingernails, pleading with Neptune to give you a break … You will cross before dinner, then you can sit with Neptune and celebrate on a westerly drift … Go Girl!
Ah, the last four markers show she has control again, heading 190 degrees SSW … must be some crazy winds going on out there. Steady as she goes Roz. Dinner’s cookin’ but won’t be ready for an hour so take your sweet time … 0.7 miles and closing at 2 mph … you are going strong Roz!
…for John Kay,
REMARKABLE accuracy on your prediction of Roz’ crossing the EQ. Looks like you’ll be within a minute, or two.
For those who haven’t seen yet, RozTracker is now at 5 minute intervals for GPS updates until Roz crosses the equator. Enjoy!!!
Hi, Roz!
Glad you are almost in the southern seas! I´ve been following you through the Roz tracker, and also on Google Earth, which has not been updated since day 54. More than a month ago! But anyway, I,ve translated your position so I can judge your course to Tuvalu. I wonder where you are intending to make landfall in Tuvalu, being there so many Islands so far apart one from the other. Maybe Funafuti?
We are still praying that the winds and currents start helping you riaght away.
Cheer up.
ALEJO ECHAVARRIA, FROM COLOMBIA, S. AMERICA
Magnificent due south, perhaps, southeast progress. .2 mi to go!
18:42 HST. Drat. Roz – you are 20 minutes late!
I’ve spent the last hour just watching you on the Roz Tracker cheering you on. It is 11:45pm here in Oklahoma and I am so proud of your success. Can not wait to see how you celebrate this mile stone. CONGRATULATIONS!
Well done, Roz! Virtual champagne cork popping! Exhuberant (though very quiet to be considerate to the rest of the household) celebration in Atlanta.
Enjoy your own celebration and pleasure in accomplishment that perhaps no one before you has achieved.
Best,
Joan
Congratulations Roz!
6:44 PM HST tweet yayy! just crossed the equator! southern hemisphere here i come!
Now, just do a few victory laps for ol’ Neptune ;-D
You made a very entertaining evening for this temporary “addict”
Just cruise a while and cool down in well deserved exuberance.
Thanks also to Evan for adding the extra excitement. Good work TeamRoz!
Congratulations! Enjoy the moment and safe rowing to Tuvalu, may the seas be kind and the winds blow in the correct direction. Best Wishes.
Roz,
I was told the other day that ‘people are happy, we just don’t know it until later’. After you hit Tuvalu, I imagine you will look back on this and appreciate that the wind, current and watermaker didn’t give it to you easy. In hindsight, satisfaction is sweetest when it involves busting your balls! However, in the female world, I can’t imagine how that works 🙂
Remember, ‘have faith, expect miracles’
Cheryl
So, what was in the yellow drybag (from Nicole and Liz) and what was your sacrifice to Neptune?
Congrats on another milestone. You will be in Tuvalu before you know it!
7:46PM wooh. ocean rowers are cheap dates. 2 glasses of bubbly and i’m anybody’s. anybody there? hmmm. no. … LOL … ok, now the victory lap for Neptune. good night and good luck. Enjoy!
Yay.. Roz!!! Congratulations! Way to go! It is a great moment. I am now praying the Wind God (Vaayu) in Hindu mythology to help you out. 🙂
WAHOO. Congratulations. Neptune is so proud to have you as a ShellBack. Now if he would give you a bit of a push south east.